OHPOC.ORG / Saloon / Wrenchin'

RE: bushings...

LudeActs — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 11:17:53 GMT

My friend that works at NTB says he will help me do the bushings, possibly gonna work on it in his uncle's body shop. He says we can use his air chisel to take them out. At least that's how he says they take them out at his shop. He claims they come out pretty easy. BRRRRRRRRRAAAAAP! (<--sound of an air chisel)

bushings...

LudeActs — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 11:24:44 GMT

To anybody who has put new bushings on their lude, how many of them need to be pressed in? I'm tryin to get an idea of how much labor I'm looking at. My car is a little squeaky. Thinking of buying the ES master set.

RE: bushings...

LudeActs — Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:13:05 GMT

Damn. The 4th gen master kit isn't a complete kit. It is about half of the bushings the 5g kit has, then you have to order the rest of them separately.

Oh, and I checked on a Honda parts website.....The rear susp. is the same, but the fronts on the SH have a different radius rod than the Base, therefore, all of the front bushings are different. Oh and BTW, the bushings on the front of the 4th gen are all different part numbers also. I didn't even check the rear. Looks like I have to order all the bushings separately. Either from ES or from Honda.

RE: bushings...

preludeman92 — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:29:42 GMT

The control arm bushings are the ones that connect the LCA to the subframe.

The SH ones are probably different. More than likely the ones for the 4th gens will work for you.

RE: bushings...

LudeActs — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 19:02:36 GMT

FR. & RR control arm, FR strut rod, FR & RR coil spring isolators, RR trailing arm, FR & RR shock, and FR & RR bumpstops are included.

Do you guys think when it says control arm bushings, is that for all the control arm bushings? (Upper and lower) I need to know, because I think one of my squeaks is coming from an RR UCA bushing. The other one I know is bad is where the radius arm meet the LCA. I'm not sure because I don't think Honda offers new bushings for the UCA. They probably want you to replace the whole thing. I have seen them for sale though as " camber adjustment kits" or whatever.

Oh and I was planning on getting the black ones. I don't even know why anybody would get the red. Sure they look cool, but I think the graphite impregnated ones would be way better than the red ones. Probably last longer too.

Also, does anybody know how the suspension is diiferent on an SH? The only master bushing kits I can find from ES are for "SH only" and I have a Base. I'm thinking fuck it. It can't be any different, but if somebody knows something I don't feel free to chime in before I waste hella time and money.

RE: bushings...

Kicker774 — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 20:28:48 GMT

Ah yes the chissel. Forgot that step

RE: bushings...

preludeman92 — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 19:15:55 GMT

Here is the easier way.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8980&highlight=bushing

All you need is a drill, hammer/chisel and a little time.

The lower bushings I got from energy suspension don't require a press or any tools to install, just the supplied lube. Oh, and if you're worried about squeeks, make sure you get the black parts because they're graphite impregnated to help reduce squeeking.

As for the number of bushings that are like that, I think it's 8 (2 on each lower control arm... 1 shock/arm mount, 1 arm/chassis mount), but I'm not sure all 8 of them are included in the master kit.

RE: bushings...

Kicker774 — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:55:46 GMT

You use the torch, hacksaw, sawzall, gridning wheel, razorblade, ninja sword to get all the old rubber bushing off your part.

Next lube up all your parts, slide your rubbers on best you can then push them all the way in and on with some deep well sockets using slow even pressure.

It takes alot of patience and an extra pair of hands to hold everything in place, but it's doable. I did a handfull of bushing on my Teg when I put in the new suspension.

RE: bushings...

LudeActs — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:37:02 GMT

I can really press them in with a vise? Awesome!Also, I know you can burn out the old ones with a torch, but I'm a little confused about where the sawzall and grinding wheel comes into play. A little enlightenment please......

RE: bushings...

Kicker774 — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 12:44:49 GMT

If you have a benchtop vice, a variety of sockets, lube, and a healthy appitite for swearing you can do them yourself in a few hours.

Blowtorch, hacksaw, sawsall, and a grinder wheel aids in the removal of old bushings as well.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 11:28:56 GMT

Okay, so I did a valve adjustment, and the CEL came back on. Then I cleared it, and it hasn't been back on since, and I haven't done anything else to the luuuude since then. I'm baffled. It's been a week with no CEL, so..... I guess it's good, but knowing my luck the CEL won't come back on until I'm in line at e-check next summer.

I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Sun, 03 Aug 2008 02:15:23 GMT

The other day I was driving to go work with my dad. I was almost there and my CEL came on. I figured it was gonna be a stupid code like the EGR or something kinda insignificant. I went to Advance Auto Parts and had them read the code........................

Cylinder 1 misfire

So I know it's not catastrophic, but it is a little worrying, and confusing, since I always thought the CEL blinks for a misfire, which mine definately didn't. I cleared the code, and it hasn't come back since, thankfully. (knock on wood) But now I gotta do a tune up. I don't think one has ever been done to my car. I replaced the plugs when I first bought it, but not a full tune-up with wires, coil, cap, and plugs.

So I ordered a set of NGK wires today from Summit. They should be here on Tuesday. Yes, they are blue and will clash a little with the red and black thing I got going on, but I have heard that they are like some of the best wires you can get. ( if there is such a thing) I will be ordering the rest of the shit as I get a little more dough. I know a cap and coil aren't too expensive.

Anyway, needless to say, this whole ordeal is gonna push back me lowering the lude for a little while. It hopefully won't be too long though because I'm trying to pick up some extra cash by working for my dad after I get out of work at my job. Working 2 jobs sucks ass, but hey, I need a drop. lol

RE: Uninstalling VAFC

98nordiclude — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 14:51:28 GMT

lol its not hard. u need to reconnect all the original wires back together, if you cant figure it out there is a pin-out of the ecu and wires on the apexi.com website. take ur time and match up the wires and make sure they have a good connection. and yes ur car will run "stock" after the removal.

Uninstalling VAFC

Kizzzzle — Wed, 18 Jun 2008 22:12:11 GMT

So I decided to upgrade to the Emanage from the VAFC and was wondering what I had to do to safely remove the VAFC. It doesnt have a wiring harness so it is just hardwired into my ECU. So since it is a piggy back I am guessing if I just carefully remove the wires from the ECU the car will go back to its normal settings. Is this correct or is there anything I need to know before I start ripping off wires?

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

preludeman92 — Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:04:56 GMT

If you're careful, you don't need to replace injector seals when you play with the fuel system. Same with the crush washers around the banjo bolts.

Check the internal resistance of the injectors while you're checking the injectors. They should all be the same (or really close).

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Sat, 09 Aug 2008 21:10:59 GMT

So I replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1 and the Cel came back. Then I replaced my main ground because it was corroded all the way through. I drove to C-bus and back with no Cel until..... it came back on as I was getting off the freeway at Loren's exit. I am so pissed right now. I checked the Helms and it says to check everything from switching injectors between cylinders ( which I don't want to do because you have to replace the seals and o-rings when you remove them) to determine if it is an injector, to checking valve clearance, compression\leakdown, fuel pressure, blah blah blah. I don't know where to start. Fuck a B.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 11:27:59 GMT

Okay, so here's the deal: I put in my NGK wires and drove to go work for my dad again. After about 45 minutes on the road the CEL came on again. So on my way home I bought a cap and rotor. The old cap looked decent, but the rotor was toast. It is all corroded at the end of the contact point and there is a small burn just below it. So I hope this solves my problem because the only other things it could be is spark plugs ($50) or an injector ($160 from honda, $121 online). Wish me luck.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

lude4lifeh22 — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 20:38:07 GMT

preludeman92 (8/5/2008)

Actually, I like OBD2 for completely stock cars, but OBD1 for tuner cars. I'm glad my 5th gen is OBD2... it told me exactly what was wrong, unlike my 4th gen... it just tells me there is a problem with the fuel system or the 02 sensor (somewhere). The 5th gen just told me exatly why it throws a code for the O2 and what was up with the fuel system.

On top of that, with a $50 reader, the newer car tells me in words and numbers what is wrong. OBD1 just blinks the CEL at me.

Anyways Tom, the Coil is around $100 for a new one everywhere I've looked. They don't fail or wear enough to care about.

Damnit Burt, stop coming up with such intelligent logical answers, you're giving me a headache.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

preludeman92 — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 19:38:31 GMT

On top of that, with a $50 reader, the newer car tells me in words and numbers what is wrong. OBD1 just blinks the CEL at me.

Anyways Tom, the Coil is around $100 for a new one everywhere I've looked. They don't fail or wear enough to care about.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

lude4lifeh22 — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 12:42:42 GMT

AMorgan (8/5/2008)

It's a 5th gen, the CEL means the motors on.

lol, OBDII FTL

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

aquila — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 12:21:20 GMT

Crap, then my motor hasn't turned on since I bought the car...

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

AMorgan — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 10:27:00 GMT

It's a 5th gen, the CEL means the motors on.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

kpro — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 12:13:51 GMT

dont bother with the injector cleaner either. If it is an injector than its most likely electrical and you can tap on it to see if it starts working again. The injectors rarely clog.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 11:31:23 GMT

Grey bush (8/3/2008)

The CEL will only blink if you have an active misfire. just the code without flashing means that there were a specific number of misfires on that cylinder per x number of revolutions. doesn't mean constant.

Thanks. I figured it was just a quick misfire because the car isn't runnung rough at all. Guys at my work say I may have an injector going bad. I'm gonna run some FI cleaner through it. I'l keep you updated.

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

Grey bush — Sun, 03 Aug 2008 19:49:18 GMT

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

LudeActs — Sun, 03 Aug 2008 19:37:15 GMT

preludeman92 (8/3/2008)

You don't need to replace the coil. Replace dizy cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs.

Word, I was thinking of just doing it anyways because they are cheap, right?

RE: I had an OH CRAP moment

preludeman92 — Sun, 03 Aug 2008 11:14:50 GMT

You don't need to replace the coil. Replace dizy cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs.

RE: o2 Sensor

Kizzzzle — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 23:17:50 GMT

And the one in the cat is just plug n play or whatever u call it? for $68?

o2 Sensor

Kizzzzle — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 12:53:41 GMT

So I need a new o2 sensor to replace the one that is in the cat, and have found either $300 ones or $60 ones which you have to wire yourself which I dont want to do. Basically I was wondering if anyone knew a good site where I could get a direct fit where you just plug it in replacement o2 sensor. Is it possible to not spend $250 and get a direct plug in sensor?

RE: o2 Sensor

dc92lude — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 20:18:51 GMT

before the cat oem bosh type 227$ --after cat or in cat whatever 68$ &change+tax

RE: o2 Sensor

kpro — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:43:17 GMT

the primary is the one before the cat and the part no. is 36531-p5p-014 its the more expensive one. The one IN the cat has the longer wires and is a touch less expensive. I can sell you one for $210 and tax for OEM Honda #36532-p5m-a02. There is not a sensor after the cat on the prelude.

the end

RE: o2 Sensor

dc92lude — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 20:26:20 GMT

you said the one in the cat? are you talking about the one after the cat? or before? the oem one after the cat isnt nearly 300$ its like 80. the one before retails at somewhere around 300. if its the one before and u really want the oem one let me know i'll see what type of discount i can do.

RE: o2 Sensor

preludeman92 — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:55:29 GMT

Summit sells a direct replacement NTK (NGK's sister company) for like $60. They don't keep the rear one instock though. See if you can find the NTK direct replacement one somewhere else or just call summit and ask how long until they can actually have it. I bet it's quicker than their webpage suggests.

RE: o2 Sensor

Kicker774 — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 15:36:36 GMT

I'm thinking I got the ~$60 some dollar DIY wiring o2 sensor for my Teg.
I don't recall it being that hard. Only 4 wires and the instructions told me which wires to connect together.

RE: My 2306cc engine build

AMorgan — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:58:20 GMT

Damn, glad I wasn't driving it then, that would have really torqued me off. I didn't leave my friends place until about 10 this morning.

My 2306cc engine build

preludeman92 — Mon, 16 Jul 2007 21:25:35 GMT

what it is: A mariage of stock honda accord peices put together to make something that really shouldn't exist... i.e. a torque monster "big block"

my power goal: 200whp, 185 wtq with no VTEC, boost, or spray, all on 93 octane.

87mm bore x 97 mm stroke SOHC, 2306cc, non-VTEC engine. It will have about 10:1 compression, and a 6500 to 7000 rpm redline

Parts:

2001 Accord F23A1 Engine block, bored 1mm over (have)
1998 Accord F23A1 97mm crank (have)
1998 Accord F23A1 Rods, cryo-treated (have, need to be sent to cryo'd)
2005 Accord K24A4 Pistons/Rings (have, need rings)
1990 Accord F22A1 Head (I have my reasons) (have, need sent to machine shop)
1993 Accord F22A4 Exhaust Manifold (may an ebay header instead?) (have ebay header)

I lied, there are some parts other than from accords
1992 Prelude Si Intake Manifold, gasket matched (have, need to gasket match)
1992 Prelude Si Throttle Body bored 2mm over by maxbore (have, need to send out)
1993 JDM H22 345cc injectors
199x Chipped P06 to run Hondata S200 (have, need to have re-chipped to P06)

Aftermarket goodies:

ACL Race Bearings (have)

Bisimoto Engineering Stage 2 cam
SPECS: Lift IN/EX Dur. IN/EX
0.374/0.396 229/229
The cam is good sized. I'll still have an idle, and I don't have to mill the head to make it fit. This cam makes power from 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm. In dyno tests it made 26 whp on a stock f22a1, more on high compression motors.

Bisimoto Engineering Ungraded Valve Springs (good for 10,600 rpm )
Bisimoto Engineering non-slip cam gear

^^^Notice, no plurals. Makes the valve terrain 1/2 as expensive, 95% as good, and much simpler. The stock f22a1 head flows 98% of what a stock h23a1 head does. The f head has more potential for flow than the h head based on internal geometry. The same manifolds are used on both heads. Plus I get to keep my power steering.

More goodies:

Bisimoto Engineering Phenolic Intake manifold gasket (like hondata)
MSD 6A digital ignition, cap and wires (at some point)
Aluminum Racing Radiator
Oil Cooler
Extra Gauges (have, installed)
Poly Filled motor mounts

If I get bored, this could be a turbo motor up to about 265 whp when the rods fail. I could use nitrous instead since hondata controls it.

This has been done very similarlly before, but it used h22a4 pistons which stick out of the block .043". The k24 pistons fit exactly like stock f23 pistons. That motor made 165whp and 169 wtq on stock cams (h23 head), 11.2 compression, and street tuned on an SAFC. With 3 dyno pulls worth of tuning on a chipped p06 (chrome used to tune) it made 183whp and 171wtq. Now with Crower 3 cams/springs/retainers it makes 200whp and 183wtq with only another 3 pulls worth of tuning... nearly all of it fuel tuning. That version has survived 26k miles, 1200+ of them on a track.

Hopefully I'll start fitting the lower end this weekend, and I'll send the rods out next week, and the head the week after. Before anyone asks, I'm not being sponsored by Bisimoto Engineering. He just happens to know his shit about the non vtec sohc motors that fit accords and preludes.

RE: My 2306cc engine build

preludeman92 — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 15:51:32 GMT

Without those pistons I would have needed a lot of custom head work or custom piston. These let me use everything as is.

Speaking of morning commute, mine was just a hair over 2 hours today. Someone rolled a Kia Sportage in middletown and shut down I75 north. I have a picture of the rolled car. It's nasty looking.

RE: My 2306cc engine build

AMorgan — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:00:53 GMT

Your saving grace is pistons? I would have recommended them anyway... they make the engine work better. BTW, missed you on the morning commute today, buddy.

RE: My 2306cc engine build

preludeman92 — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 18:23:33 GMT

Here is the saving grace to my build

There have been a few setbacks to my build schedule... the rest of my parts should be in my hands next weekend if all goes well.

Working on custom rod bolts as well

RE: Uninstalling VAFC

preludeman92 — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:43:46 GMT

If they're putting the emanage in they probably have to access the same wires the VAFC is hooked to. Unless of course you have a boomslang harness.